Plot Twist
With a diverse mix of food, culture, and adventure, Knoxville defies expectation
by Kathryn Davé
Modern tourism works like this: a city identifies its most brand-worthy element and crafts a singular identity around it. Not Knoxville. The energetic mountain city in East Tennessee refuses to be defined by any one thing, instead unapologetically offering up the dynamic mix of food, culture, sport, art, music, and nature that has made it such a rich destination.
Even the landscape of the city can’t be pinned to one significant landmark. Located at the base of the Smokies, Knoxville is shaped by the presence of the mountains and the path of the Tennessee River, which flows through downtown, carving its way along brick-red bluffs. The gold globe of the Sunsphere glitters in the skyline and across the city, the iconic University of Tennessee Neyland Stadium rises to join it.
Is Knoxville a football town or a food and wine destination or a hub for outdoor adventure or an art-lover’s playground? The answer is yes.
There’s no denying that Knoxville has undergone a transformation in the last few decades, but its successes aren’t the generic kind. The city’s growth is more revelation than renaissance, an illumination of Knoxville’s true roots.
Take the Knoxville culinary scene. When celebrated luxury resort Blackberry Farm opened just down the road in 1990, it spurred a national interest in Appalachian cuisine. The farm’s reverence for local ingredients and regional traditions gave “Foothills cuisine” the attention it deserved—and gave a new era of chefs a chance to take their training and passion to Knoxville and beyond. James Beard Award–winning chef Joseph Lenn, formerly of Blackberry Farm and now the force behind J.C. Holdway, is perhaps the most famous example, but in the end, Lenn and countless others like him are simply paying homage to the food traditions that have been rooted in this land for generations.
This is the story you’ll find all across Knoxville. From music (jazz, blues, and country all had important developments here) to art (the region boasts a fascinating art history) and more, the elements that give this city its soul reach way back to its history. The people, landscapes, and culture of Knoxville have always been special. The rest of us are just finally paying attention.
A peaceful rustic-chic room awaits at RT Lodge.
stay
RT Lodge
The serenity you’ll find at this boutique inn is worth the 25-minute drive from downtown Knoxville. Nestled in the woods, RT Lodge has perfected gracious hospitality. Rooms are simple but well-appointed: creamy wood-paneled walls, rustic log accents, seriously stylish pillows. The bookends of an RT Lodge stay—breakfast and dinner at the lodge’s restaurant—are particularly delicious, thanks to the culinary talents of a team led by Chef Trevor Stockton, a Blackberry Farm alum. Best of all? The silence. Curl up in any one of the numerous sittin’ spots on property and listen to the birdsong, the breeze, and . . . not much else. Rooms start at $249, rtlodge.com
The Oliver Hotel
This charming, 28-room hotel in the heart of Knoxville’s Market Square has been a style darling since it first opened more than a decade ago. Sophisticated interiors with nods to mid-century design and graphic art prints balance the circa-1886 building’s historic architecture. Service is top-notch, with careful attention paid to all the little touches that add up to a memorable stay. The hotel’s ground floor is also home to brunch favorite Oliver Royale and the Peter Kern Library—a speakeasy hidden behind a secret wall. Don’t worry, they’ll give you the code at check-in. Rooms start at $239, theoliverhotel.com
True to its name, A Dopo, which translates as “see you later,” wins repeat customers with its wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizzas.
dine
A Dopo
Knoxville is not known for pizza, which makes A Dopo’s existence so surprising. The dinner-only restaurant has earned national accolades for its sourdough Neapolitan-style pizza. A Dopo’s mozzarella is hand-pulled in-house every day, a rarity even for serious pizza joints. Chef/owner Brian Strutz worked at Blackberry Farm and on farms across Italy, and that influence shows up in the OMG-worthy pizzas pulled from A Dopo’s wood-fired oven. adopopizza.com
J.C. Holdway
Award-winning chef Joseph Lenn made his name at Blackberry Farm, but at the restaurant he named in honor of his great-uncle, Lenn makes his cooking even more personal. He lets Appalachian ingredients and wood-fire techniques take the lead but with a distinct sophistication that’s landed J.C. Holdway on multiple best-of lists. jcholdway.com
Potchke
The traditional Jewish deli is not a common fixture in the South, but Potchke updates the concept and brings it to Knoxville with a slightly Appalachian twist. Tender yet chewy bialys are the star here, while local ingredients like smoked trout take the place of typical whitefish. potchkedeli.com
Drink
Brother Wolf
Negronis may be enjoying a long reign right now, but this neon-lit aperitivo bar is still finding something fresh to do with them (and a whole host of other amari-inspired drinks). brotherwolf.com
Tern Club resurrects the mid-century tiki bar craze with retro libations and Polynesian panache.
Tern Club
Nothing about a tiki bar should be serious except the drinks themselves, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at Tern Club. Enjoy the classics, try a modern take on tiki, and do it all from the nearly hidden but very fun back patio. ternclub.com
Zero Zero
This low-key natural wine bar takes its name from a style of winemaking where nothing is added to the wine and nothing is removed. Enjoy natural, low-intervention bottles, along with beer, vermouth, and spritz specials in a bar that’s as roomy as it is relaxed. zerozeroknox.com
Do
Ijams Nature Center
Between the city’s greenways, the Knoxville Urban Wilderness, and the plentiful river paddling or cruising options, opportunities for exploring the city’s natural beauty are abundant. See a bit of it all at Ijams Nature Center, a 300-acre nature preserve just 3.5 miles from downtown, with miles of trails, a canopy adventure, rock climbing, quarry lake views, and river access. ijams.org
Rala
An acronym for “Regional And Local Artists,” Rala showcases art and handmade goods from local creators. The cheerful shop is the perfect place to pick up a souvenir, a gift, a Dolly Parton–themed anything, or a memorable piece of art. shoprala.com
The Knoxville Museum of Art
Hewn from pink Tennessee marble, the museum’s exterior is worth pausing to appreciate. Inside, the small but tightly curated collection showcases the rich visual culture of Eastern Tennessee. knoxart.org
Photography courtesy of (from top to bottom) Steven Bearden Photography, Natalie Watson, Caroline Trotter, and Reed Schick; this story appears in our Fall 2024 issue.